Mendocino Day 2: Wine and Waves

Last weekend I went up to Mendocino county to check out the wine and waves. In doing my research I realized that Mendocino is both a town and a county - a large county. North of Sonoma, the county stretches out to the California coastline and is named "America's Greenest Wine Region" since many wineries are organic and biodynamic. The main wine areas are the Upper Russian River Valley and Anderson Valley. On day 1 we focused on the Upper Russian River Valley with our visit to Campovida and the surrounding Hopland area. On Day 2, after enjoying the Campovida property, we drove through the mountains to Anderson Valley. First stop was lunch at Roederer Estate, California's outpost of the Champagne producer Louis Roederer. Roederer uses traditional Champagne winemaking methods including Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, which are all estate grown. We had pre-ordered a picnic lunch and enjoyed it on their patio with two glasses of sparkling wine. The lunch basket was filled with delicious local cheeses, bread, onion jam, almonds, clementines, and dark chocolate for dessert.

Roederer Estate Brut MV (Multi Vintage) is a wine made in the traditional non-vintage style of Champagne, with each year's wine layered on top of the previous. The idea is to have a consistent "house" wine each year. This wine, aged two years on the lees, was crisp and refreshing with bright toasty pear notes.

Roederer Estate L'Ermitage 2004, with 4% reserve wine aged five years in oak, spent additional aging time on the cork before release. More complex and toasty, this wine was creamy and nutty with subtle apple and butterscotch.

There is nothing like sparkling wine and flavorful cheese on a sunny afternoon. We had to pull ourselves away to get to our appointment at Navarro Vineyards, just down the road on Highway 128.

I'd learned about Navarro via my cousin, one of their club members, who had shared a bottle of their Pinot Noir with us about a year ago. What I didn't realize was that Navarro focuses on wine varietals that hail from Alsace, France: Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris in addition to Pinot Noir. In fact, Gewurz and Pinot Noir make up the majority of their production and were the first grapes they planted on the property in the early 1970s. An old sheep farm, the property also includes goats, llamas and quail, and they make and sell goat cheese. During our vineyard tour we got close with one of the llamas.

I haven't had much California Gewurztraminer so I happily inhaled the floral bouquet and tropical, spicy flavor that I enjoy in this type of wine. Navarro Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris were all approachable and refreshing wines. Pinot Noir was earthy and spicy with pleasant red fruit and rose petals. Late Harvest Riesling, made from grapes "kissed with the noble rot" and coming in at 7.5% residual sugar and 12.5% alcohol, was luscious and complex with that botrytis spice that helps balance the honey-like sweetness. Navarro sells all of their wine direct to consumer at reasonable average prices around $20-$30.

After a pleasant afternoon in the Anderson Valley we decided to head to the coast and spend a night near the town of Mendocino. Back on Highway 128 heading north, driving along the Navarro River until it opens into the Pacific Ocean, we found ourselves in the Navarro River Redwoods State Park with the tall trees hugging the road and creating a canopy over us. A magical ride, the highway then meets up with Highway 1, and suddenly, we were at the edge of the continent. The coastline rose to greet us as we continued north to our destination, The Heritage House Resort. Every room has a view*, and after sunset and dinner the sound of the waves lulled us to sleep.

*Not the view from our room