R. Lopez de Heredia and Viña Tondonia - at last

Our last stop in Rioja, R. Lopez de Heredia proved well worth the wait. Located in the historic town of Haro in Rioja Alta, R. Lopez de Heredia is the oldest winery there and sits on the River Ebro. This was the winery we had been waiting for - old, moldy and full of history. Lopez de Heredia is still family owned and operated, employing traditional winemaking techniques. They own all their vineyards, Viña Tondonia being the most famous, and all their plantings are bush vines that must be hand-picked. Fermentation occurs naturally from yeasts that are present on the grapes and in the winery while in huge wooden vats that date back to the early 1900s. They achieve filtration by pouring the wine through a huge mass of the stems leftover from the grapes after they are de-stemmed; I've never heard of this method before but I like the recycling aspect. The wines are aged for much longer than most wines, even the whites, with 8-10 years being the typical aging period for most of their wines. The barrels themselves may be used for 10 years, and an onsite cooperage repairs old barrels and makes new ones as needed using American oak. They use egg whites for fining, a very traditional "old world" practice for clarifying wine; 6-8 egg whites are needed per barrel, with the point of this exercise being to coagulate any particles that may be left over after filtering through the stems. Every vessel we saw was wood - there was not a single stainless steel tank to be found. Using wood allows for natural oxygen exchange, which may help with the wine's longevity. Bottling, corking and labeling are all done by hand, and they use very durable cork from Catalunya, Spain, since they age their wines in bottle for such extended periods of time. Miles of underground cellars mean the temperature and humidity are just right for aging wine. Penicillin mold along the walls, barrels and bottles keep bacteria out of the wine. 

Fermentation Vats

The Cooperage

Restored Barrels

The Caves

Bottle Aging White Rioja

We tasted these two wines, a white and a red.

2004 Viña Gravonia is 100% Viura, the dominant white grape of Rioja. It was rich, nutty, toasty and creamy while maintaining a nice acidity. I've appreciated R. Lopez de Heredia's style of white wine since I first tried their 1993 Viña Tondonia Reserva while working at the San Francisco Wine Center a couple years ago. This producer consistently showcases the ageability of white Rioja and the Viura grape.

2002 Viña Tondonia is 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, 5% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano. It had fruit flavors of cranberry and plum along with leather and spice. Very smooth but still bright, with the capacity to age for much longer. This delicate wire cage that you sometimes see on red Rioja serves no other purpose than tradition.

As you can see from the vintages of these wines, they've rested for years in the cellar before release. But even with the inventory that Lopez de Heredia holds, their wines are still affordable at around 20 euros a bottle, or about $30. And even though most of their wines are available in the U.S., we picked up a bottle of 1998 Viña Tondonia Reserva White Rioja to enjoy in the future and bring us back to this delicious trip.

Viva la Luna de Miel en Rioja!

Wine & Spirits' Grand Tasting

Last month my friend Oskar visited from the Finger Lakes and invited me to join him at the Wine & Spirits Top 100 Tasting, honoring the San Francisco-based magazine's chosen top 100 wineries of the year. Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard was honored for the 3rd year in a row, and I got to accompany Oskar as a representative of the winery. Going to industry tastings is always more fun with 2 people - you can share the responsibility of pouring the wine while having the chance to walk around and taste the other wines.

The best part was the Champagne and oysters section on the veranda of City View at METREON in downtown/SoMa San Francisco - great views and delicious indulgences. I tried Dom Perignon for the first time (it was ok; I've had better for cheaper) and sampled some other great names like Louis Roederer.

In the Riesling family, in addition to Wiemer's 2010 Gewurztraminer and 2009 Late Harvest Riesling, wines that I proudly helped produce, I enjoyed Joh. Jos. Prum's 2009 Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese (Germany), a similar style to our Late Harvest Riesling, and Loimer's 2009 Kamptal Reserve Langenlois Steinmassl Riesling and 2010 Kamptal Gruner Veltliner (Austria). I love this simple green label:

Again I sampled R. Lopez de Heredia's 1993 Rioja Reserva Vina Tondonia Blanco, the white Rioja I first had at San Francisco Wine Center over the summer; this is such an interesting wine. I also had their 2001 Rioja Reserva Vina Tondonia Tinto, the red version. Delicious Spanish wines.

Other notable reds included Leonetti Cellar's 2008 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and 2009 Walla Walla Valley Merlot. I've had older Leonetti vintages and they have been divine, so it was nice to try the current releases and see what the wine is like in its youth. I also enjoyed Achaval-Ferrer's 2008 La Consulta Uco Valley Finca Altamira Malbec. I visited this winery during my trip to Mendoza last year but I hadn't tried this single vineyard Malbec.

I had fun bumping into Mary Burnham and Jordan Mackay, wine writers and instructors at SFWC wine school.

And as always, it was great pouring Wiemer to adoring fans from around the country.

Other coverage:
http://www.vinography.com/archives/2011/10/whats_your_best_wine_tasting_t.html

More Rioja!

I guess Rioja is my wine of the month, if I had one! Yesterday came the sad news of the passing of Enrique Forner, founder of Marques de Caceres, the iconic Spanish Rioja brand. This is my go-to value wine, with the Crianza priced around $10. It is consistent and always tasty. I actually have a bottle at home right now.

Last week we had our Wines of Spain tasting class at SFWC, featuring 3 wines from Rioja, a white and 2 reds. This Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia White Rioja from 1993 was very unique, with an almost Sherry-like expression on the nose but a creaminess on the palate. Great acidity and dry with complex flavors of marzipan and meringue. Six years of aging so the oak was very well integrated. The wine is composed of estate grown Viura (90%) and Malvasía (10%), traditional Spanish white grapes in the region.

Viva Rioja!

Wines of Spain @ SFWC

This week in wine school Jordan Mackay, James Beard-award winning author, took us on a tour of Spain. We traveled to Cataluna – home of Cava; Rias Baixas – home of Albarino; Rueda – home of Verdejo; Navarra – home of Garnacha; Rioja – home of Tempranillo; Ribera del Duero – another Tempranillo hotspot; and Priorat – famed for Garnacha, Carignan, Cab Sauv, Merlot, and Syrah. From value wines to coveted classics and newcomers, Spain runs the gamut. The Cava, Albarino, and Verdejo were all refreshing, lively and costing around $20 or less. The 1993 White Rioja was super complex, with Sherry-like notes and a creaminess that was very unique.  One of our storage members, Shirley, brought a 2005 Rioja to share, and we compared this with the 2004 Muga in our lineup. Muga is a more traditional producer and they use mostly French oak, whereas the Remirez de Ganuza that Shirley brought was a more modern style, more fruit-forward with heavy American oak. The last two wines were very special, high-end wines from Ribera del Duero and Priorat. They had a complexity and finesse that was noticeable, and the class loved these wines. Personally the Bodegas Emilio Moro Malleolus Valderramiso 2007 from Ribera del Duero was my favorite!

The wines:

1. Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad Cava

2. Fillaboa Albariño 2009 – Rias Baixas

3.  Condesa Eylo Verdejo 2008 – Rueda

4.  R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia White Rioja 1993

5.  El Chaparral de Vega Sondoa Garnacha 2009 – Navarra

6.  Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva Rioja 2004

Bonus: Remirez de Ganuza Rioja 2005

7.  Bodegas Emilio Moro Malleolus Valderramiso 2007 – Ribera del Duero

8.  Dits del Terra Priorat 2005 – Garnacha & Carignan

Salud!