I had a fantastic experience at Casa Marin in the San Antonio Valley, west of the coastal ranges just 20 km from the ocean. I tasted the best lineup of winemaker Maria Luz Marin's wines and toured the facility with her. Marilu, as she is called, was a pioneer in planting vines on the slopes of the mountains 10 years ago. Like all pioneers, she was viewed as loco (crazy). And like all pioneers, her results proved otherwise. The vineyards on top of the hills experience a different mesoclimate (cooler, more breezy) than those at the bottom (warmer), and the taste differences are apparent in the wines, particularly the Sauvignon Blanc. In general, the area benefits from constant coastal breezes that moderate the temperature and cool things down at night.
In terms of varietals, Marilu produces all my faves: Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Syrah. The Sauv Blanc and Pinot Noir are fermented naturally, while the rest are usually innoculated with yeast (with the exception of the 2009 Riesling).
The tasting:
* Riesling Miramar Vineyard 2008: set on the higher part of the hills, Miramar vineyard enjoys a cooler climate with the ocean wind naturally keeping yields lower. The nose is like a classic German Riesling - petrol, mineral, citrus. It is dry, crisp, and fresh with high acidity.
* Sauvignon Blanc Laurel Vineyard 2009: Laurel is a lower vineyard with calcereous soil and warmer temperatures that result in a higher yield. The nose was unlike anything I've ever smelled on a Sauv Blanc - cantaloupe, yellow peaches, apricot. The zesty palate has tropical and similar stone fruit flavors with a long finish.
* Sauvignon Blanc Cipresses Vineyard 2009: Cipresses is higher on the hills with a cooler climate and lower yield. This is a more typical style Sauv Blanc with pronounced gooseberry, herb, lime zest, and a tiny bit of ash on the finish.
* Sauvignon Gris 2009: 60% fermented in new French oak and the rest in stainless steel for 6-7 months. The nose had a unique fresh corn character and was smooth and tropical on the palate with some melon notes as well. This grape is a mutation/cousin of Sauv Blanc and I'd never had it before - very interesting.
* Gewurztraminer 2009: beautiful perfume aroma that at first reminded me of the Tocca Brigitte perfume I sometimes wear and then evolved into lychee and white peach followed by the softest baby powder. On the palate it was dry with pretty flowers and tropical fruit. A really beautiful wine, reminding me how much I love Gewurz.
* Pinot Noir Lo Abarca Vineyard 2006: 12 months in oak, 60% new. Served chilled to lesson the impact of the 15% alcohol (which worked since I never would have guessed it was that high). Classic PN aromas and flavors of red fruit and smoky bacon - delicious! My first Pinot in Chile and it definitely delivered.
* Cartagena Pinot Noir 2009: an experimental label launched in Nov '09, it is completely vinified in stainless steel and meant to be drunk now, cold. The nose is smoky with eucalyptus, then red fruit and meat come through on the palate. It tastes light and almost fizzy. 14% alcohol. Very interesting and pleasant.
After this fantastic lineup I did some barrel sampling with Marilu and her son Phillipe. We tried the '09 Syrah, comparing a French oak sample with an American oak sample. The French barrel was soft and fruity with very subtle spiciness. The American barrel was pure black pepper on the nose and blackberry on the palate. Both are currently going through malolactic fermentation so they will soften after this completes. They've been in barrels for 9 months so far and will remain there for at least another 6 mths. Marilu said they don't always do a Syrah - it depends on the vintage.
I had been most looking forward to this winery visit in Chile, expecting great things from Casa Marin's whites and Pinot Noir, and it was everything I had hoped for. Thanks to Marilu, Phillipe, and Jamie for hosting me and to Karen for setting it up and sharing the experience with me!
