HJW in Argentina

After a long journey from the Finger Lakes to Long Island to Argentina, it was about time for Peter and me to drink the wine we made during the 2009 harvest at Hermann J. Wiemer. In October we had harvested Gewurztraminer from the HJW vineyard at Wiemer, the original and oldest planting on the property. We had separated out the botrytis-affected bunches and used only the shriveliest bunches for our wine, fermenting it and yielding just one 375mL bottle. It was ready by the end of October, so it´s been aging (and traveling) for about 3 months.

When we took it out of the fridge today we noticed the sediment in the bottle right away. When we first poured it there were some bubbles, so we worried that it had started to re-ferment. But the nose was developed and very pretty, with white flower, orange, grapefruit, and a touch of botrytis spice and minerality. On the palate it had a luscious mouthfeel, complexity, and a really good integration of sweetness, acidity, body, and alcohol. The flavor reminded me of honeyed grapefruit and the finish was crisp. It tasted very different from when we first tried it in early November; the 3 months of bottle aging definitely served it well. We were so excited by the result! We are so proud that we made a good wine. If only we had been able to make some more. Maybe next harvest...

Green harvest

At Peter's vineyard we did a little green harvesting, or fruit thinning, of the Tempranillo. We eliminated bunches so that a smaller amount of fruit could develop more fully. It was kind of sad to drop so many beautiful bunches, but I know it'll be good for the wine in the end - having fewer bunches means the remaining grapes will have more intense flavors. We fed some of the fallen bunches to the sheep, so that was good too.

I found the most beautiful bird´s nest in one of the plants I was working on. It had 4 small turquoise speckled eggs in it. We went back later to get a photo and the mother bird, which is a Chingolo, was there and flew off when she saw us, so we snapped a quick one and left so she could return.

We worked for a few hours in the morning and then took a break for lunch and a siesta. I now understand and appreciate the whole siesta thing. It is too hot in the afternoon to work outside, so everyone rests and then goes back to work around 5pm til about 8pm, when it's cooler. The sun doesn't go down until around 10pm, so everyone works late and eats late.

It seems like people here should be heavier since they are always eating and then sleeping, but they're not - must be all that farmwork.

Barrel Sampling at Los Vencejos

Peter and I went to check on his wine, which is vinified and aged at Finca La Luz in the Uco Valley, south of the city of Mendoza (but still part of the Mendoza wine region). We barrel-sampled his Malbec and Tempranillo, contrasting oak types and ages and getting a sense for how the flavors are developing.

*Malbec 2009 in French first-use oak: black pepper and dark fruit; layers of complexity forming.
*Malbec 2009 in French second-use oak: more pronounced fruit with more elegant body.
*Tempranillo 2009 in American first-use oak: cherry cola and smooth tannin.
*Tempranillo 2009 in French first-use oak: a hint of clove with red cherry.
*Tempranillo 2008 in Hybrid (French and American) first-use oak: clove and baking spices, like mulled cider; evolved into eucalyptus and blackberry jam; very complex and exciting.

All the wines were very tasty and interesting. We were pretty jazzed about the Tempranillo in general because it is very unique (it's a mainstay grape in Spain but here in Argentina it's Malbec most of the time). In a few days we'll be bottling the Tempranillo 2008 and then it will age in bottle for another 2 years.

The 2009s will stay in barrel for at least another year before bottling. If you can't wait that long, Los Vencejos Tempranillo 2007 and Malbec 2007 are available at www.losvencejos.com.

Meat me in Mendoza (Part 2)

After the visit to Achaval Ferrer we had lunch at Norton - but not just any lunch - a 7-course lunch with 7 wines: 3 appetizers, 2 mains, and 2 desserts. It was so ridiculous because we didn't realize it was happening until they brought out the second main and then we figured out that we weren't splitting the tasting menu, we were basically getting all of it. The food was delicious. Fresh salmon ravioli, empanadas, lamb, etc. For the wine pairings they sometimes contrasted regular wines with reserve wines - Chardonnay, Malbec - and interestingly we preferred the regular wines in these cases because they were more fruity and less oaky.

After that we didn't think dinner would be necessary, but we ended up at a wine bar later that night and did a delicious wine and cheese pairing. My favorite pair was the Urraca Familia Langley Blend 2005 - Malbec, Merlot, Cab Sauv - with Sainte-Maure goat cheese, followed by the Enamore Blend 2007 - Malbec, Syrah, Bonarda, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc - with blue cheese sprinkled with black pepper.

Meat me in Mendoza (Part 1)

After a thrilling all-day busride over the Andes, Peter and I reunited and spent the weekend in Mendoza, Argentina, enjoying the meat and Malbec. First up was a really elegant Angelica Zapata 2004 Malbec, a product of the successful Bodega Catena Zapata. Bright fruit with balanced alcohol and acidity made this a treat both with and without the meat.

At a visit to Achaval Ferrer, one of the top Malbec producers, I learned about their very interesting way of de-alcoholizing their wine. They said because of the heat their Malbec gets super ripe and can get up to 17-18% alcohol, which is too high, so to bring it down to a more reasonable 13-14% they have fans blowing over the juice as it is fermenting, helping to evaporate the alcohol. This is fascinating to me. Their yields are very low to concentrate the flavors in the grapes, which explains why the vines looked so sparse as we were driving in - only a few bunches per plant. We also learned that you should age your wine without the foil capsule on it so you can see how the cork is holding up. If you see that you have a leaky cork, better drink the wine!

















We tasted one of Achaval Ferrer's single vineyard Malbecs, Finca Bella Vista, from 2007. This wine goes for over $100 a bottle in the US. It was super concentrated with flavors of blackberry and licorice. They also had a nice blend called Quimera (also 2007) that was Malbec, Merlot, Cab Sauv and Cab Franc. It had a lot of bright red fruit and good structure.

The Maule Moment

It just so happened that I saved my best winery experience in Chile for last. I made an excursion to the J. Bouchon Winery and Mingre Lodge this week in the Maule Valley, 3 hours south of Santiago. Hosted by Julio Bouchon, I learned about the history of the family, the wine, and the land. Maule Valley is the largest wine-producing region geographically, but it is only just beginning to receive recognition for the terroir and the quality wines that result - hence, the Maule moment. In terms of hectares, Bouchon is medium-sized for Chile with 370 hectares planted and 1.8 million liters of wine produced annually. All the grapes from their 3 vineyard sites are hand-picked and sorted at the winery.

In between mountain biking and horseback riding I tasted the complete lineup of wines - 3 whites, 1 rose, and 8 reds. In general the wines are fresh and fruity, with the reds showing a balanced use of French oak, sometimes new and sometimes old. Since I liked them all I have to mention them each briefly:

* Sauvignon Blanc 2009: easy-going, floral, citrusy, light.
* Chardonnay 2009: unoaked so crisp and fruity.
* Las Mercedes Sauvignon Blanc 2007: complex, oaked SB that maintains tropical fruit and acidity.
* Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 2009: strawberry, cherry, light and dry.
* Merlot Reserva 2008: strawberry with a black tea finish.
* Carmenere-Syrah Reserva 2008: interesting and unique blend with green pepper, black fruit, some chocolate.
* Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2008: red and black fruits, very juicy with smooth tannins.

The Reserva Especial line is made from the oldest vines - some as old as 80 years!
* Malbec Reserva Especial 2007: strawberry and vanilla with firm tannin.
* Carmenere Reserva Especial 2007: fresh bell pepper nose and red fruit with some spice.
* Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Especial 2007: black fruit, cassis, eucalyptus; very juicy and approachable.

The Blends
* Las Mercedes Ensamblaje 2006: 45%Cab Sauv, 40%Syrah, 15%Malbec. Complex with black fruits, cassis, mint, eucalyptus, raspberry.
* Mingre 2006: 45%Cab Sauv; 15% each Carmenere, Malbec, Syrah; 10%Merlot. Similar to Las Mercedes but with brighter red fruit.

I talked a lot about the Carmenere in Chile, but I should mention that Cabernet Sauvignon is really the main grape and wine in Chile, making up 50% of wine production in Chile. Cab Sauv is not one of my favorite varieties (it is often too heavy and tannic for me) so I don't often focus on it. But, the Cab Sauvs at J. Bouchon were the best I had in Chile and some of the most enjoyable I've had to date. 

Beautiful scenery, outdoor activities, and great wine - a fantastic way to end my stay in Chile.

Skip to Marilu

I had a fantastic experience at Casa Marin in the San Antonio Valley, west of the coastal ranges just 20 km from the ocean. I tasted the best lineup of winemaker Maria Luz Marin's wines and toured the facility with her. Marilu, as she is called, was a pioneer in planting vines on the slopes of the mountains 10 years ago. Like all pioneers, she was viewed as loco (crazy). And like all pioneers, her results proved otherwise. The vineyards on top of the hills experience a different mesoclimate (cooler, more breezy) than those at the bottom (warmer), and the taste differences are apparent in the wines, particularly the Sauvignon Blanc. In general, the area benefits from constant coastal breezes that moderate the temperature and cool things down at night.

In terms of varietals, Marilu produces all my faves: Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Syrah. The Sauv Blanc and Pinot Noir are fermented naturally, while the rest are usually innoculated with yeast (with the exception of the 2009 Riesling).

The tasting:
* Riesling Miramar Vineyard 2008: set on the higher part of the hills, Miramar vineyard enjoys a cooler climate with the ocean wind naturally keeping yields lower. The nose is like a classic German Riesling - petrol, mineral, citrus. It is dry, crisp, and fresh with high acidity.
* Sauvignon Blanc Laurel Vineyard 2009: Laurel is a lower vineyard with calcereous soil and warmer temperatures that result in a higher yield. The nose was unlike anything I've ever smelled on a Sauv Blanc - cantaloupe, yellow peaches, apricot. The zesty palate has tropical and similar stone fruit flavors with a long finish.
* Sauvignon Blanc Cipresses Vineyard 2009: Cipresses is higher on the hills with a cooler climate and lower yield. This is a more typical style Sauv Blanc with pronounced gooseberry, herb, lime zest, and a tiny bit of ash on the finish.
* Sauvignon Gris 2009: 60% fermented in new French oak and the rest in stainless steel for 6-7 months. The nose had a unique fresh corn character and was smooth and tropical on the palate with some melon notes as well. This grape is a mutation/cousin of Sauv Blanc and I'd never had it before - very interesting.
* Gewurztraminer 2009: beautiful perfume aroma that at first reminded me of the Tocca Brigitte perfume I sometimes wear and then evolved into lychee and white peach followed by the softest baby powder. On the palate it was dry with pretty flowers and tropical fruit. A really beautiful wine, reminding me how much I love Gewurz.
* Pinot Noir Lo Abarca Vineyard 2006: 12 months in oak, 60% new. Served chilled to lesson the impact of the 15% alcohol (which worked since I never would have guessed it was that high). Classic PN aromas and flavors of red fruit and smoky bacon - delicious! My first Pinot in Chile and it definitely delivered.
* Cartagena Pinot Noir 2009: an experimental label launched in Nov '09, it is completely vinified in stainless steel and meant to be drunk now, cold. The nose is smoky with eucalyptus, then red fruit and meat come through on the palate. It tastes light and almost fizzy. 14% alcohol. Very interesting and pleasant.

After this fantastic lineup I did some barrel sampling with Marilu and her son Phillipe. We tried the '09 Syrah, comparing a French oak sample with an American oak sample. The French barrel was soft and fruity with very subtle spiciness. The American barrel was pure black pepper on the nose and blackberry on the palate. Both are currently going through malolactic fermentation so they will soften after this completes. They've been in barrels for 9 months so far and will remain there for at least another 6 mths. Marilu said they don't always do a Syrah - it depends on the vintage.

I had been most looking forward to this winery visit in Chile, expecting great things from Casa Marin's whites and Pinot Noir, and it was everything I had hoped for. Thanks to Marilu, Phillipe, and Jamie for hosting me and to Karen for setting it up and sharing the experience with me!

Alpacas and grapes

On Tuesday the workers at Viña Matetic on the border of the San Antonio and Casablanca Valleys caught their alpacas eating the Chardonnay grapes. I guess this is one of the cons of having an organic winery. Of course one of the pros is that the alpacas, and the sheep and other animals that share the land with the grapes, contribute naturally to the cycle of life in this environment (mostly because their waste is used as fertilizer). Matetic has been certified organic for 4 years and has been working to become biodynamic since 2002. Biodynamic practices are complicated and include 'rituals' like spreading carefully prepared mixtures of manure at certain times throughout the vineyard. Isn't winemaking so romantic?

The Matetic winemaking facility is built into the hills with a lot of large rocks and smooth wood flanking the interior. It is gravity-driven so they don't need to pump the wine from one place to the other. The family Matetic was the first to plant Syrah in the area, in 1999. The Coralillo Syrah 2008 was a gorgeous fuschia color with blackberry, smoke, and roses. The tannins were firm and it could probably use more time in the bottle. Failing that option it may also be great with a steak. The Winemaker's Blend 2007 is 44% Cab Franc, 30% Merlot, and 26% Malbec. It had a spicy cinnamon nose with flavors or black fruit, rose, and caramel. It too would probably benefit from some meat and/or more bottle time.

 

I think I was most excited about seeing the alpacas :) Although it would've been even better to eat some grapes with them.

Chilean Riesling

With 2 days off from wine touring (yesterday was Election Day in Chile so wineries were closed and today I had a shopping day), I was going through a bit of withdrawal so I decided to pick up a half-bottle of wine from the supermarket (for less than US$4). It's from Underraga, who I visited last week, and it's a Sauvignon Blanc-Riesling blend from 2008. I don't think I have ever seen these 2 grapes together before so I was intrigued. Plus the bottle is a bizarre shape - reminds me of an old-school Chianti bottle or a liquor bottle. On the nose the wine has classic Sauv Blanc herbaceousness mixed with Riesling minerality and a bit of petrol. On the palate it is light and citrusy with great acidity and zest. Quite enjoyable for this sunny afternoon in Santiago. I hope there will be more Riesling in my semi-immediate future during these last few days in Chile.

Cruzing

Colchagua Valley, Chile - home to the little town of Santa Cruz and the picturesque wineries MontGras and Bisquertt.

MontGras was just beautiful, with purple flower gardens accenting the vineyards. At this point in the lifecycle of the vine (summertime) the grapes are developing and for the most part have not yet gone through veraison, or color development. So all the grapes I've seen so far down here have been an unripe green, until today at MontGras, where I witnessed their Pinot Noir beginning to turn purple. At MontGras I actually had my favorite Chardonnay of the trip yet. It was 60% aged in French oak and the rest stainless steel, and it went through partial malolactic fermentation. The result was a smooth wine with tropical fruit flavors.

At Bisquertt, I saw huge Chilean oak barrels that are no longer used for fermenting wine but are now made into regal chairs. Sitting in one of these chairs fit for a queen I had my first Chilean Gewurztraminer, which was delicious. Not many wineries in Chile have this variety so I was so happy to try it. It was flowery on the nose and tropical/citrusy on the palate, just like it should be.

Colchagua Valley is the first area in Chile that slightly resembles other wine areas that I've been to the before. Maybe it's the Andes, but before today every where I'd been seemed so unique. In Colchagua there actually seems to be a wine trail, a main road where you pass multiple wineries along the way. There is even a Wine Train that leaves from Santa Cruz and takes people along the route. You drink wine on the train, learn about the industry and visit 2 vineyards. Tren del Vino! Maybe next time.

Por que Santa Rita?

I am a failure because I visited Santa Rita today and I still don't know why it is called as such. Often the winery is named for a person, but nowhere in the history lessons I received did I hear the name Rita, so I am super confused about its origins. And I did the thing where I wondered it in my head several times throughout the day but never actually asked the question. I had some trouble finding my voice today - sensory overload maybe.

Anyway, Santa Rita is another classic establishment in Chile, one of the oldest wineries. It is huge and commercial but has a beautiful old cellar and a cool museum filled with South American artifacts like pottery, textiles, gold, silver, copper, and stone that were made by native people like the Incas and Mapuches.

I tried the 2 wines pictured and liked them both. The Sauv Blanc, made from their fruit grown in the Casablanca valley near the Pacific ocean (better valley for whites than Maipo) had a really luscious pineapple character and a fresh acidity. The Cab Sauv was like liquid toffee, with firm tannins. It aged for 10 months in American oak, which clearly contributed the rich toffee/butterscotch/chocolate thing going on. I could've drank this wine for dessert.

An interesting thing I learned was that they have different wines for Chilean consumption versus for export. The exported SB uses fruit from a different vineyard; the exported CS was aged in French oak for 14 months. I tried to get the reasoning behind this but I think it may have been lost in translation. In the past, higher quality wine was exported because other markets had more sophisticated palates than Chile. But now that Chile has established itself in the wine industry, the quality levels are intended to be the same, and I think the differences must be due to stylistic preferences. The exact answer remains a mystery like the origins of the name Santa Rita. Marcelo, if you are reading this, help a sister out?

The devil's cellar

Today I'm back in the Maipo Valley to visit the classic Concha y Toro, one of the oldest wineries in Chile. They are most known in the US for value wines. It was great to see the expansive property and cellars. Their production is over 15 million liters of wine per year. They own several labels around Chile. One of them, Cono Sur, located in the south, won a couple of the Wines of Chile awards last night. They also have a premium wine that they don't export, which is a collaboration with Baron Phillipe de Rothschild in France.

Security is tight at Concha y Toro. In the olden days they had a problem with theft in the original cellar that held the family's wines, so they started a rumor that the cellar was guarded by the devil. After that they didn't notice any more missing bottles - people were very superstitious then. Now they commemorate that story with a line of value wines called Casillero del Diablo, the devil's cellar.

I had a classic empanada for lunch after my tour with a glass of their Terrunyo Carmenere 2006, which was a good complement to this meat pastry. To be frank, I didn't make this visit for the wine but for the history.

Next up - another classic, Santa Rita!

Vinos de Chile - the Oscars

I managed to get myself invited to the 7th Annual Wines of Chile Awards Dinner last night, which took place at a golf course in Santiago. A panel of Canadian journalists (aka wine critics) judged the wines blind this week and the results were announced at this gala dinner, Academy Awards-style. It was very entertaining and I met some very interesting people, including the first Master Sommelier in Canada; there are only 2 in the country. Representatives from over 100 wineries were there, and I drank Casa Silva Syrah with the business manager sitting at my table. The dinner was a buffet of traditional Chilean foods from the north, central, and south. I don't think I made it to the south because there was too much food. It was heaven, with lots of seafood and Sauvignon Blanc. My favorite SB was from Montes, which is in the Colchagua Valley. After the food and formalities a Russian DJ played Chilean salsa music and American pop. The Chileans love this stuff! They don't know who Michael Jackson was but they know they like his music.

None of the winners were wineries that I am visiting on my trip, but it was a memorable cultural experience nevertheless. Special thanks to my new friend Fred (a fellow NYer and a Master Sommelier himself) for taking me to this event!

Errazuriz: it's a tongue-twister

Funny coincidence about this place in Aconcagua Valley, Chile. The owner of Paumanok Vineyards in Long Island (where I have been before and written about in the past) married a Chilean and had their Chilean marriage ceremony at Errazuriz. You can see from the pic that this is a beautiful building, and the vineyards set in the hills are even more beautiful. I had lunch first - an unexpectedly delicious 3 courses with 3 wines as follows:

1. Sauvignon Blanc 2009 - gooseberry, herbs, fresh acidity - paired with caperberries on cream cheese toast followed by an appetizer of fresh mushrooms with red pepper and cilantro. I happen to strongly dislike both mushrooms and cilantro BUT since I had prepaid for the lunch and didn't even know what I was going to get I gave it a shot. It was actually really good; the 'shrooms were super fresh and didn't have that mushroomy taste and smell that I don't like, and the cilantro just worked. With the wine - a match made in heaven.
2. Merlot 2007 - medium body with strawberry and chocolate - a great complement to the classic Chilean dish pastel de choclo, which sounds like a dessert but is a corn cake pie with beef, chicken, hard boiled egg and a few random raisins. I was psyched to try this because my tour guide had been telling me about it. It was hearty and yummy.
3. Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2007 - heavenly honey and baked apple - perfectly paired with flan/creme brulee.

Energized and buzzed, I climbed one of the hills with my PR guide Pedro, noting the sandy soil with rocks underneath, and we talked climate and terroir. He told me that they use very modern techniques to guide their viticulture techniques, including vigor maps that use radiation to determine which plants to harvest first. The property is undergoing expansion and I saw the new buildings and winemaking facility.

They make a couple of wines that they call 'wild ferment' - these wines undergo natural fermentation without the addition of yeasts the way most wines are made. Instead they let the natural yeasts on the grape skins do the work when they are ready. I tried their wild ferment Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and, not to be trite, they did taste a bit more 'wild,' or like something that I'm not sure I can describe, something funky. Their Carmenere reinforced my earlier opinion that it is very similar to Cab Franc, and I learned that it was originally suspected to be as such when the ampelographer noticed something amiss in some Chilean Merlot vineyards in 1991. By 1994 it was confirmed to be Carmenere, and after the vines were separated the first single varietal Carmenere was released in 1996. Now they know that Merlot ripens more quickly than Carmenere, and the earlier distinct taste of Chilean 'Merlot' could be attributed to the Carmenere being harvested too early and having 'green,' unripe flavors. Carmenere is now the last grape to be harvested in Chile, as it should be, during May. Harvest usually begins in February with the whites.

Ok I think that is enough wine-geekiness for one day! Chau for now (yes in Latin America they say Chau - at first I thought people were mistaking me for Italian and saying Ciao, but it seems they say the same word and spell it their own way).

Entiendo español de vino!

I had a great experience at Viña von Siebenthal in the Aconcagua Valley. I met the assistant winemaker, Darwin, and he confessed that he did not speak English. My guide, Lisette, offered to translate. My Spanish is so-so, but I said to her, let me see what I can understand and I'll let you know if I need an explanation. Happily, I understood almost everything Darwin said! So maybe my Spanish isn't so great but I can understand wine-Spanish, and that is good.

Viña von Siebenthal produces about 10,000 cases, a little bit smaller than Wiemer. They pick all the grapes by hand and sort twice, in the vineyard and in the winery. They only produce reds, which are stainless steel fermented and barrel aged. In the barrel the wines undergo spontaneous malolactic fermentation, which turns harsh natural acids into softer ones. They do not filter their wines. I tried their 2008 Carmenere and 2006 Parcel 7, a blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc, and Petit Verdot - a very Bordelais blend. Both wines were delicious.

Before we left we tried a large yellow fruit off a tree on the vineyard property. It looked like a lumpy yellow grapefruit but had a very thick skin and tasted sour like a lemon at first with a slightly sweet finish. It was called a lima. When I was eating it I thought it would be great in a vodka martini...

Underraga: if I could roll my R's this would be even more fun to say

Chile's Maipo Valley - so far so good. On my first day of wine touring I visited a classic, Cousiño Macul, one of the oldest wineries in Chile. It was cool to see their old cellars and the equipment they used to use for winemaking. Then I went to the gorgeous property of Underraga, walking through their gardens and vineyards before seeing their winery. Rodrigo told me all about their history and practices. He let me take a whiff of an aging barrel of Carmenere, which could've gotten him fired, he said. The most interesting vinification process that I learned about was their technique for removing the sediment in their red wines. Naturally solids are part of the winemaking process, and it's the winemaker's job to get them out somehow, through natural settling, filtering, etc. At Underraga they bring the temperature of the stainless steel tanks down so that the sediment freezes and remains on a rack inside the tank. The clean wine is then drawn out through hoses and into barrels. This type of tank seems very cool to me.

Here I got my first taste of Carmenere, but it was blended so at this point I cannot make any firm conclusions about this variety. But I did learn about the origin of this grape here. It's a funny story, and my disclaimer is that it may not be 100% accurate but you will get the idea. In the 1900s Chileans brought grape varieties over from France - Cab Sauv, Merlot, Syrah, etc. - to make quality wine. When phylloxera hit Europe, the US, and other places around the world in the mid-1900s, Chile wasn't affected. So they were the only wine market for a bit while the other areas had to rebuild. People were starting to notice Chile. They said, Hey this Merlot from Chile is really different and good. Well, it was Carmenere, mixed with Merlot. The vines had been mixed up and planted together. So they had unknowingly been making Merlot-Carmenere blends. A top ampelographer confirmed this, and they began planting Carmenere and vinifying it on its own. Now Chile is known for the grape variety. After phylloxera hit France they couldn't grow it again, so Carmenere is to Chile what Tannat is to Uruguay - the signature grape.

To me, Carmenere has similar characteristics to Cabernet Franc - red fruit, bell pepper, black pepper spice. It is medium bodied with soft tannins. I still have much to explore in the way of Carmenere, but my initial impressions are good.

The mountains are everywhere, the Andes to the east and the coastal ranges to the west. These mountains help create mesoclimates perfect for growing grapes. There is a lot of sun and the nights are breezy and cool. Can´t complain!

A whale of a day at Alto de la Ballena

I spent the day at this young winery in Punta Ballena, Uruguay, with the owner Paula and winemaker Carla. Alto de la Ballena is beautiful - set in the hills not far from the ocean and overlooking a lake. Paula gave me the history and showed me the Tannat, explaining what a vigorous vine it is; they often have to do leaf- and bunch- thinning a couple times in the spring to maximize the ripening potential of the grapes. They actually focus more on Merlot than Tannat, and their Tannat is blended with Viognier to get a softer wine. Way up in the highest hills of the property they grow Syrah, which Carla explained gets this spot because the elevation and soil allow it the best conditions for ripening.

Alto de la Ballena's tasting area is a covered deck overlooking the vineyards. The 3 of us sampled some wines and cheeses and exchanged our impressions. I particularly liked their Syrah, Tannat-Viognier and Merlot-CabFranc-Tannat.

After the tasting Carla showed me the winery and we did some barrel sampling of the '08 and '09 vintages of Cab Franc, Syrah, and Tannat. It was great to be able to taste the latest vintage and get a sense for how it develops in the barrel.

It was a beautiful day and Paula and Carla were amazing to spend so much time with me. Alto de la Ballena might be the dream vineyard - rocky soil, rolling sierras (hills), proximity to the ocean, and delicious wines. Muchas gracias, Señoras!

I heart the Tannat, a.k.a. wine touring Uruguay-style

Today I had a unique experience causing me to label the day as the best day of wine touring I've ever had. I've only just begun my wine journey down here so I may say that again next week but for now we'll let it stand.

First I visited the gorgeous property of Bodega Bouza in Montevideo, Uruguay. I started by roaming the vineyards before my tour began. Then Maria walked me around the property and told me about the history and viticulture and viniculture practices at Bouza. I think the most interesting thing I learned is that Bouza uses gravity to transfer the wines from fermentation tank to oak barrel instead of an electric pump. The sorting line and fermentation tanks are on the main level of the winery while the smaller oak barrels are on the lower level, and they run the hoses through a hole in the floor. This method prevents the introduction of air in the transfer process. For my Bouza tasting I was given a selection of 4 wines, as follows with my brief impressions:

*Chardonnay 2008: oaky but well-made with nice acidity and apple on the finish.

*Tempranillo-Tannat 2008: slight petrol funk on the nose with some red berry characteristics and smooth tannins.

*Monte vide eu 2007 Tannat-Merlot-Tempranillo: rose petal nose with some bell pepper character, palate of dark fruit, chocolate, tobacco - my second favorite of the tasting.

*Tannat A6 2007 (single plot): very fragrant nose of blackberry with raspberry chocolate on the palate, jammy with weighty but smooth tannins - my favorite of the tasting.

I continued tasting the wines over a most delicious lunch of spinach ravioli in a cheesy cream sauce - very decadent and quite possibly one of the best meals I've ever had, wines included. Interestingly, both the Chardonnay and Tannat went really well with the dish. The Chardonnay was such a good complement, it reminded me that there is a place in this world for oaky Chardonnay - or at least for Bouza's.

Three hours had passed and it was time for my next and last stop, H. Stagnari. Among the stainless steel tanks Ana told me about their history, viti and vini, and showed me the team of girls inspecting every bottle and hand labeling to perfection. Stagnari and all of Uruguay are very proud of their wine history and national grape Tannat, and I can see why. Tannat could age for 10 years, and it can range in complexity, like most reds, depending on the vinification techniques. For our Stagnari tasting Ana selected 4 wines and actually poured herself a glass and tasted each one with me, so we could talk about them:

*Chardonnay 2009: stainless steel and malolactic fermentation gave this wine a lush pineapple character that I really liked.
*Merlot 2009: very pronounced strawberry nose with smooth chocolate covered strawberry on the palate - quite possibly the best Merlot I've ever had (and a ridiculous $6 a bottle!).

*Tannat Viejo 2007: rose petal and blackberry characteristics with firm but juicy tannins - it may be an oxymoron but these tannins were juicy - made me see Tannat a bit differently because of the unique tannin situation. Ana actually had decanted this the day before and said it shows it best that way. For older Tannats she definitely recommends decanting to allow the wine to breathe and open up.

*Blush 2009: base of Muscat de Alexandria with a bit of Tannat mixed in to cut the sweetness, this had a pronounced honeysuckle aroma and was crisp on the palate - and very yummy with a bit of cheese and maraschino cherry.

So, I now understand how it works down here and why people only book 2 winery appointments per day (and you almost certainly need an appointment). Each visit is a personalized experience where you are encouraged to take your time enjoying the wines and the atmosphere - and I definitely did.

Latest Vintage Tannat

Another night in Colonia, another half bottle of Tannat! This one is Don Pascual's 2009. It is cool to be in the southern hemisphere drinking the latest vintage, which they probably harvested this past March-April. This Tannat is very pleasant, with flavors of blackberry, black tea, and a hint of black pepper.

NV Tannat?

I'm currently in the cutest seaside town in Uruguay - Colonia del Sacremento - eating dinner on a sidewalk cafe looking at the ocean with a half bottle of wine. It's Tannat, of course. In terms of body it reminds me of Merlot but has a darker black fruit character more like Cabernet Sauvignon. Tannat may actually be the perfect marriage of those 2 varietals if anyone ever needed one - the structure and complexity of Cab Sauv with the lightness and ease of Merlot (read: not so tannic). Bordeaux could have just made Tannat instead of doing all their mixing of Cab Sauv, Merlot, and the others ;) I'm sure they have their reasons. At this point I don't know enough about how Tannat holds up and how the quality varies to judge France. Which brings me to my next point - this San Juan Tannat does not have a vintage anywhere on the bottle. I don't know what this means. The obvious answer is that it is a blend from different years. I don't know if that is a thing here. I am hoping my upcoming winery visits will shed some more light on this subject.

Tango y Malbec

Upon completion of my beginner tango lesson in Buenos Aires, I sat down to my first glass of South American wine, a Malbec from Mendoza. Young, vibrant, and alive, but with darkness and structure, this 2008 Balbo Malbec is a great wine to follow this classic sensual/macho dance of the city. Salud!