Saturday, September 18, 2010

Harvest mascots

Since I've been working at a winery I am now very much at home with nature. Snake in the vineyard - big deal. Bugs and worms on the sorting table - no problem. Recently there have been some cute animals wandering into the winery.

First day of harvest - this guy jumped in:




















The frog eventually hopped out when he saw how busy we were bringing in the first juice of the harvest.

And the other day, this pretty lady flew in:
















Sarah, our intern from Germany, caught this Hummingbird and set it free.

Gewurz me

Last week we harvested the first block of Gewurztraminer from our Josef vineyard up in Dresden, NY.  For the first picking of Gewurztraminer we focus on capturing crisp, natural acidity in the grapes. Usually 2 weeks later we will harvest the rest, giving it time to develop more rich, ripe flavors and higher natural sugar content.


The Magdalena block will hang another week or so before we harvest it:


Gewurz grapes are my favorite wine grapes to eat, so I don't mind the fact that the sorting takes a long time. I eat my way through it. Sometimes you just have to sample the grapes to make sure the bunch is good enough to go into the press. If it's underripe, we reject it. Good grapes in, good wine out.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Do you remember?

Just as harvest was beginning we went back to bottling - just the wine for sparkling was left for this bottling cycle.  We had added the sugar back in August (remember this is a crucial step in sparkling winemaking because the yeast need something to eat in order for the second bubble-producing fermentation to occur) and were waiting for the yeast. Once we added the yeast, we inoculated by adding a bit of wine to the right amount of yeast to get things going. We let it sit overnight and then for another full day before we added it to the tank and mixed it into the wine. Then we were ready to bottle - first the Chardonnay for Blanc de Blanc, and then the Pinot Noir for Brut Rose. This time bottling was a little different since instead of using corks we use metal caps. This closure ensures a tight seal so the wine can undergo the second fermentation in the bottle without losing any of the carbon dioxide (or exploding/leaking). A team of 5 of us carefully ran the bottles through the line and the capper, and then arranged the bottles in horizontal stacks in wooden bins. The bottles will stay like this for about 2 and a half years. The actual fermentation will only take a couple of weeks, but then the wine will sit on the dead yeast cells, or lees, for an extended period of time. (In French this position is called en tirage.) The contact with the lees actually contributes to the classic Champagne-like flavors that are so desired in a sparkling wine - toasty, biscuity, brioche characteristics.

The Chardonnay Blanc de Blanc is in the classic green Champagne bottle:


The Pinot Noir Brut Rose looks so pretty in its clear bottle:

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Dancing in September

 
It's the most wonderful time of the year - not Christmas - Harvest! 3 weeks earlier than last year, we started picking. First up was the Chardonnay for sparkling wine. We usually do this first to capture the natural acidity that is so necessary for wine that is meant to sparkle. Because of the warm spring and summer we had to start before Labor Day. Starting Friday and throughout the Labor Day weekend we picked from an old section of the HJW vineyard that hadn't bore fruit since 2003. We got about 7 tons in total from those vines! I spent the first day preparing for the grapes by getting the presses cleaned and ready. We weren't totally prepared since we'd just come off 3 weeks of bottling. So it was a bit of a triathlon to get everything ready for harvest. We had a very productive (if long) weekend but I didn't mind because I am so excited for harvest! Stay tuned for more as we gradually start bringing in the 2010 vintage.